ሰኞ 23 ኖቬምበር 2015

z Pond in z Winter; Walden !


The Pond inWinter
fter a still winter night I awoke with the impression that some
question had been put to me, which I had been endeavoring in
vain to answer in my sleep, as what—how—when—where?
But there was dawning Nature, in whom all creatures live, looking in
at my broad windows with serene and satisfied face, and no question
on her lips. I awoke to an answered question, to Nature and daylight.
The snow lying deep on the earth dotted with young pines, and the
very slope of the hill on which my house is placed, seemed to say,
Forward! Nature puts no question and answers none which we
mortals ask. She has long ago taken her resolution. “O Prince, our
eyes contemplate with admiration and transmit to the soul the
wonderful and varied spectacle of this universe. The night veils
without doubt a part of this glorious creation; but day comes to reveal
to us this great work, which extends from earth even into the plains
of the ether.”
A
Then to my morning work. First I take an axe and pail and go in
search of water, if that be not a dream. After a cold and snowy night
it needed a divining rod to find it. Every winter the liquid and
trembling surface of the pond, which was so sensitive to every
breath, and reflected every light and shadow, becomes solid to the
depth of a foot or a foot and a half, so that it will support the heaviest
teams, and perchance the snow covers it to an equal depth, and it is
not to be distinguished from any level field. Like the marmots in the
surrounding hills, it closes its eye-lids and becomes dormant for three
months or more. Standing on the snow-covered plain, as if in a
pasture amid the hills, I cut my way first through a foot of snow, and
then a foot of ice, and open a window under my feet, where, kneeling
to drink, I look down into the quiet parlor of the fishes, pervaded by
a softened light as through a window of ground glass, with its bright
sanded floor the same as in summer; there a perennial waveless
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serenity reigns as in the amber twilight sky, corresponding to the cool
and even temperament of the inhabitants. Heaven is under our feet as
well as over our heads.
Early in the morning, while all things are crisp with frost, men
come with fishing reels and slender lunch, and let down their fine
lines through the snowy field to take pickerel and perch; wild men,
who instinctively follow other fashions and trust other authorities
than their townsmen, and by their goings and comings stitch towns
together in parts where else they would be ripped. They sit and eat
their luncheon in stout fear-naughts on the dry oak leaves on the
shore, as wise in natural lore as the citizen is in artificial. They never
consulted with books, and know and can tell much less than they
have done. The things which they practise are said not yet to be
known. Here is one fishing for pickerel with grown perch for bait.
You look into his pail with wonder as into a summer pond, as if he
kept summer locked up at home, or knew where she had retreated.
How, pray, did he get these in mid-winter? O, he got worms out of
rotten logs since the ground froze, and so he caught them. His life
itself passes deeper in Nature than the studies of the naturalist
penetrate; himself a subject for the naturalist. The latter raises the
moss and bark gently with his knife in search of insects; the former
lays open logs to their core with his axe, and moss and bark fly far
and wide. He gets his living by barking trees. Such a man has some
right to fish, and I love to see Nature carried out in him. The perch
swallows the grub-worm, the pickerel swallows the perch, and the
fisherman swallows the pickerel; and so all the chinks in the scale of
being are filled.
When I strolled around the pond in misty weather I was sometimes
amused by the primitive mode which some ruder fisherman had
adopted. He would perhaps have placed alder branches over the
narrow holes in the ice, which were four or five rods apart and an
equal distance from the shore, and having fastened the end of the line
to a stick to prevent its being pulled through, have passed the slack
line over a twig of the alder, a foot or more above the ice, and tied a
dry oak leaf to it, which, being pulled down, would show when he
had a bite. These alders loomed through the mist at regular intervals
as you walked half way round the pond.
Ah, the pickerel of Walden! When I see them lying on the ice, or in
the well which the fisherman cuts in the ice, making a little hole to
admit the water, I am always surprised by their rare beauty, as if they
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were fabulous fishes, they are so foreign to the streets, even to the
woods, foreign as Arabia to our Concord life. They possess a quite
dazzling and transcendent beauty which separates them by a wide
interval from the cadaverous cod and haddock whose fame is
trumpeted in our streets. They are not green like the pines, nor gray
like the stones, nor blue like the sky; but they have, to my eyes, if
possible, yet rarer colors, like flowers and precious stones, as if they
were the pearls, the animalized nuclei or crystals of the Walden
water. They, of course, are Walden all over and all through; are
themselves small Waldens in the animal kingdom, Waldenses. It is
surprising that they are caught here,—that in this deep and capacious
spring, far beneath the rattling teams and chaises and tinkling sleighs
that travel the Walden road, this great gold and emerald fish swims. I
never chanced to see its kind in any market; it would be the cynosure
of all eyes there. Easily, with a few convulsive quirks, they give up
their watery ghosts, like a mortal translated before his time to the thin
air of heaven.
As I was desirous to recover the long lost bottom of Walden Pond,
I surveyed it carefully, before the ice broke up, early in ‘46, with
compass and chain and sounding line. There have been many stories
told about the bottom, or rather no bottom, of this pond, which
certainly had no foundation for themselves. It is remarkable how long
men will believe in the bottomlessness of a pond without taking the
trouble to sound it. I have visited two such Bottomless Ponds in one
walk in this neighborhood. Many have believed that Walden reached
quite through to the other side of the globe. Some who have lain flat
on the ice for a long time, looking down through the illusive medium,
perchance with watery eyes into the bargain, and driven to hasty
conclusions by the fear of catching cold in their breasts, have seen
vast holes “into which a load of hay might be driven,” if there were
any body to drive it, the undoubted source of the Styx and entrance to
the Infernal Regions from these parts. Others have gone down from
the village with a “fifty-six” and a wagon load of inch rope, but yet
have failed to find any bottom; for while the “fifty-six” was resting
by the way, they were paying out the rope in the vain attempt to
fathom their truly immeasurable capacity for marvellousness. But I
can assure my readers that Walden has a reasonably tight bottom at a
not unreasonable, though at an unusual, depth. I fathomed it easily
with a cod-line and a stone weighing about a pound and a half, and
could tell accurately when the stone left the bottom, by having to pull
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so much harder before the water got underneath to help me. The
greatest depth was exactly one hundred and two feet; to which may
be added the five feet which it has risen since, making one hundred
and seven. This is a remarkable depth for so small an area; yet not an
inch of it can be spared by the imagination. What if all ponds were
shallow? Would it not react on the minds of men? I am thankful that
this pond was made deep and pure for a symbol. While men believe
in the infinite some ponds will be thought to be bottomless.
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A factory owner, hearing what depth I had found, thought that it
could not be true, for, judging from his acquaintance with dams, sand
would not lie at so steep an angle. But the deepest ponds are not so
deep in proportion to their area as most suppose, and, if drained,
would not leave very remarkable valleys. They are not like cups
between the hills; for this one, which is so unusually deep for its area,
appears in a vertical section through its centre not deeper than a
shallow plate. Most ponds, emptied, would leave a meadow no more
hollow than we frequently see. William Gilpin, who is so admirable
in all that relates to landscapes, and usually so correct, standing at the
head of Loch Fyne, in Scotland, which he describes as “a bay of salt
water, sixty or seventy fathoms deep, four miles in breadth,” and
about fifty miles long, surrounded by mountains, observes, “If we
could have seen it immediately after the diluvian crash, or whatever
convulsion of Nature occasioned it, before the waters gushed in, what
a horrid chasm it must have appeared!
So high as heaved the tumid hills, so low
Down sunk a hollow bottom, broad, and deep,
Capacious bed of waters—-- .
But if, using the shortest diameter of Loch Fyne, we apply these
proportions to Walden, which, as we have seen, appears already in a
vertical section only like a shallow plate, it will appear four times as
shallow. So much for the increased horrors of the chasm of Loch
Fyne when emptied. No doubt many a smiling valley with its
stretching cornfields occupies exactly such a “horrid chasm,” from
which the waters have receded, though it requires the insight and the
far sight of the geologist to convince the unsuspecting inhabitants of
this fact. Often an inquisitive eye may detect the shores of a primitive
lake in the low horizon hills, and no subsequent elevation of the plain
has been necessary to conceal their history. But it is easiest, as they
who work on the highways know, to find the hollows by the puddles
after a shower. The amount of it is, the imagination, give it the least
license, dives deeper and soars higher than Nature goes. So,
probably, the depth of the ocean will be found to be very
inconsiderable compared with its breadth.
As I sounded through the ice I could determine the shape of the
bottom with greater accuracy than is possible in surveying harbors
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which do not freeze over, and I was surprised at its general regularity.
In the deepest part there are several acres more level than almost any
field which is exposed to the sun wind and plough. In one instance,
on a line arbitrarily chosen, the depth did not vary more than one foot
in thirty rods; and generally, near the middle, I could calculate the
variation for each one hundred feet in any direction beforehand
within three or four inches. Some are accustomed to speak of deep
and dangerous holes even in quiet sandy ponds like this, but the
effect of water under these circumstances is to level all inequalities.
The regularity of the bottom and its conformity to the shores and the
range of the neighboring hills were so perfect that a distant
promontory betrayed itself in the soundings quite across the pond,
and its direction could be determined by observing the opposite
shore. Cape becomes bar, and plain shoal, and valley and gorge deep
water and channel.
When I had mapped the pond by the scale of ten rods to an inch,
and put down the soundings, more than a hundred in all, I observed
this remarkable coincidence. Having noticed that the number
indicating the greatest depth was apparently in the centre of the map,
I laid a rule on the map lengthwise, and then breadthwise, and found,
to my surprise, that the line of greatest length intersected the line of
greatest breadth exactly at the point of greatest depth,
notwithstanding that the middle is so nearly level, the outline of the
pond far from regular, and the extreme length and breadth were got
by measuring into the coves; and I said to myself, Who knows but
this hint would conduct to the deepest part of the ocean as well as of
a pond or puddle? Is not this the rule also for the height of
mountains, regarded as the opposite of valleys? We know that a hill
is not highest at its narrowest part.
Of five coves, three, or all which had been sounded, were observed
to have a bar quite across their mouths and deeper water within, so
that the bay tended to be an expansion of water within the land not
only horizontally but vertically, and to form a basin or independent
pond, the direction of the two capes showing the course of the bar.
Every harbor on the sea-coast, also, has its bar at its entrance. In
proportion as the mouth of the cove was wider compared with its
length, the water over the bar was deeper compared with that in the
basin. Given, then, the length and breadth of the cove, and the
character of the surrounding shore, and you have almost elements
enough to make out a formula for all cases.
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In order to see how nearly I could guess, with this experience, at
the deepest point in a pond, by observing the outlines of its surface
and the character of its shores alone, I made a plan of White Pond,
which contains about forty-one acres, and, like this, has no island in
it, nor any visible inlet or outlet; and as the line of greatest breadth
fell very near the line of least breadth, where two opposite capes
approached each other and two opposite bays receded, I ventured to
mark a point a short distance from the latter line, but still on the line
of greatest length, as the deepest. The deepest part was found to be
within one hundred feet of this, still farther in the direction to which I
had inclined, and was only one foot deeper, namely, sixty feet. Of
course, a stream running through, or an island in the pond, would
make the problem much more complicated.
If we knew all the laws of Nature, we should need only one fact, or
the description of one actual phenomenon, to infer all the particular
results at that point. Now we know only a few laws, and our result is
vitiated, not, of course, by any confusion or irregularity in Nature,
but by our ignorance of essential elements in the calculation. Our
notions of law and harmony are commonly confined to those
instances which we detect; but the harmony which results from a far
greater number of seemingly conflicting, but really concurring, laws,
which we have not detected, is still more wonderful. The particular
laws are as our points of view, as, to the traveller, a mountain outline
varies with every step, and it has an infinite number of profiles,
though absolutely but one form. Even when cleft or bored through it
is not comprehended in its entireness.
What I have observed of the pond is no less true in ethics. It is the
law of average. Such a rule of the two diameters not only guides us
toward the sun in the system and the heart in man, but draw lines
through the length and breadth of the aggregate of a man’s particular
daily behaviors and waves of life into his coves and inlets, and where
they intersect will be the height or depth of his character. Perhaps we
need only to know how his shores trend and his adjacent country or
circumstances, to infer his depth and concealed bottom. If he is
surrounded by mountainous circumstances, an Achillean shore,
whose peaks overshadow and are reflected in his bosom, they
suggest a corresponding depth in him. But a low and smooth shore
proves him shallow on that side. In our bodies, a bold projecting
brow falls off to and indicates a corresponding depth of thought. Also
there is a bar across the entrance of our every cove, or particular
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inclination; each is our harbor for a season, in which we are detained
and partially land-locked. These inclinations are not whimsical
usually, but their form, size, and direction are determined by the
promontories of the shore, the ancient axes of elevation. When this
bar is gradually increased by storms, tides, or currents, or there is a
subsidence of the waters, so that it reaches to the surface, that which
was at first but an inclination in the shore in which a thought was
harbored becomes an individual lake, cut off from the ocean, wherein
the thought secures its own conditions, changes, perhaps, from salt to
fresh, becomes a sweet sea, dead sea, or a marsh. At the advent of
each individual into this life, may we not suppose that such a bar has
risen to the surface somewhere? It is true, we are such poor
navigators that our thoughts, for the most part, stand off and on upon
a harborless coast, are conversant only with the bights of the bays of
poesy, or steer for the public ports of entry, and go into the dry docks
of science, where they merely refit for this world, and no natural
currents concur to individualize them.
As for the inlet or outlet of Walden, I have not discovered any but
rain and snow and evaporation, though perhaps, with a thermometer
and a line, such places may be found, for where the water flows into
the pond it will probably be coldest in summer and warmest in
winter. When the ice-men were at work here in ‘46-7, the cakes sent
to the shore were one day rejected by those who were stacking them
up there, not being thick enough to lie side by side with the rest; and
the cutters thus discovered that the ice over a small space was two or
three inches thinner than elsewhere, which made them think that
there was an inlet there. They also showed me in another place what
they thought was a “leach hole,” through which the pond leaked out
under a hill into a neighboring meadow, pushing me out on a cake of
ice to see it. It was a small cavity under ten feet of water; but I think
that I can warrant the pond not to need soldering till they find a worse
leak than that. One has suggested, that if such a “leach hole” should
be found, its connection with the meadow, if any existed, might be
proved by conveying some colored powder or sawdust to the mouth
of the hole, and then putting a strainer over the spring in the meadow,
which would catch some of the particles carried through by the
current.
While I was surveying, the ice, which was sixteen inches thick,
undulated under a slight wind like water. It is well known that a level
cannot be used on ice. At one rod from the shore its greatest
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fluctuation, when observed by means of a level on land directed
toward a graduated staff on the ice, was three quarters of an inch,
though the ice appeared firmly attached to the shore. It was probably
greater in the middle. Who knows but if our instruments were
delicate enough we might detect an undulation in the crust of the
earth? When two legs of my level were on the shore and the third on
the ice, and the sights were directed over the latter, a rise or fall of
the ice of an almost infinitesimal amount made a difference of several
feet on a tree across the pond. When I began to cut holes for
sounding, there were three or four inches of water on the ice under a
deep snow which had sunk it thus far; but the water began
immediately to run into these holes, and continued to run for two
days in deep streams, which wore away the ice on every side, and
contributed essentially, if not mainly, to dry the surface of the pond;
for, as the water ran in, it raised and floated the ice. This was
somewhat like cutting a hole in the bottom of a ship to let the water
out. When such holes freeze, and a rain succeeds, and finally a new
freezing forms a fresh smooth ice over all, it is beautifully mottled
internally by dark figures, shaped somewhat like a spider’s web,
what you may call ice rosettes, produced by the channels worn by the
water flowing from all sides to a centre. Sometimes, also, when the
ice was covered with shallow puddles, I saw a double shadow of
myself, one standing on the head of the other, one on the ice, the
other on the trees or hill-side.
While yet it is cold January, and snow and ice are thick and solid,
the prudent landlord comes from the village to get ice to cool his
summer drink; impressively, even pathetically wise, to foresee the
heat and thirst of July now in January,—wearing a thick coat and
mittens! When so many things are not provided for. It may be that he
lays up no treasures in this world which will cool his summer drink
in the next. He cuts and saws the solid pond, unroofs the house of
fishes, and carts off their very element and air, held fast by chains
and stakes like corded wood, through the favoring winter air, to
wintry cellars, to underlie the summer there. It looks like solidified
azure, as, far off, it is drawn through the streets. These ice-cutters are
a merry race, full of jest and sport, and when I went among them they
were wont to invite me to saw pit-fashion with them, I standing
underneath.
In the winter of ‘46-7 there came a hundred men of Hyperborean
extraction swoop down on to our pond one morning, with many car-
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loads of ungainly-looking farming tools, sleds, ploughs, drillbarrows,
turf-knives, spades, saws, rakes, and each man was armed
with a double-pointed pike-staff, such as is not described in the New-
England Farmer or the Cultivator. I did not know whether they had
come to sow a crop of winter rye, or some other kind of grain
recently introduced from Iceland. As I saw no manure, I judged that
they meant to skim the land, as I had done, thinking the soil was deep
and had lain fallow long enough. They said that a gentleman farmer,
who was behind the scenes, wanted to double his money, which, as I
understood, amounted to half a million already; but in order to cover
each one of his dollars with another, he took off the only coat, ay, the
skin itself, of Walden Pond in the midst of a hard winter. They went
to work at once, ploughing, harrowing, rolling, furrowing, in
admirable order, as if they were bent on making this a model farm;
but when I was looking sharp to see what kind of seed they dropped
into the furrow, a gang of fellows by my side suddenly began to hook
up the virgin mould itself, with a peculiar jerk, clean down to the
sand, or rather the water,—for it was a very springy soil,—indeed all
the terra firma there was, and haul it away on sleds, and then I
guessed that they must be cutting peat in a bog. So they came and
went every day, with a peculiar shriek from the locomotive, from and
to some point of the polar regions, as it seemed to me, like a flock of
arctic snow-birds. But sometimes Squaw Walden had her revenge,
and a hired man, walking behind his team, slipped through a crack in
the ground down toward Tartarus, and he who was so brave before
suddenly became but the ninth part of a man, almost gave up his
animal heat, and was glad to take refuge in my house, and
acknowledged that there was some virtue in a stove; or sometimes
the frozen soil took a piece of steel out of a ploughshare, or a plough
got set in the furrow and had to be cut out.
To speak literally, a hundred Irishmen, with Yankee overseers,
came from Cambridge every day to get out the ice. They divided it
into cakes by methods too well known to require description, and
these, being sledded to the shore, were rapidly hauled off on to an ice
platform, and raised by grappling irons and block and tackle, worked
by horses, on to a stack, as surely as so many barrels of flour, and
there placed evenly side by side, and row upon row, as if they formed
the solid base of an obelisk designed to pierce the clouds. They told
me that in a good day they could get out a thousand tons, which was
the yield of about one acre. Deep ruts and “cradle holes” were worn
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in the ice, as on terra firma, by the passage of the sleds over the same
track, and the horses invariably ate their oats out of cakes of ice
hollowed out like buckets. They stacked up the cakes thus in the open
air in a pile thirty-five feet high on one side and six or seven rods
square, putting hay between the outside layers to exclude the air; for
when the wind, though never so cold, finds a passage through, it will
wear large cavities, leaving slight supports or studs only here and
there, and finally topple it down. At first it looked like a vast blue
fort or Valhalla; but when they began to tuck the coarse meadow hay
into the crevices, and this became covered with rime and icicles, it
looked like a venerable moss-grown and hoary ruin, built of azuretinted
marble, the abode of Winter, that old man we see in the
almanac,—his shanty, as if he had a design to estivate with us. They
calculated that not twenty-five per cent. Of this would reach its
destination, and that two or three per cent. Would be wasted in the
cars. However, a still greater part of this heap had a different destiny
from what was intended; for, either because the ice was found not to
keep so well as was expected, containing more air than usual, or for
some other reason, it never got to market. This heap, made in the
winter of ‘46-7 and estimated to contain ten thousand tons, was
finally covered with hay and boards; and though it was unroofed the
following July, and a part of it carried off, the rest remaining exposed
to the sun, it stood over that summer and the next winter, and was not
quite melted till September 1848. Thus the pond recovered the
greater part.
Like the water, the Walden ice, seen near at hand, has a green tint,
but at a distance is beautifully blue, and you can easily tell it from the
white ice of the river, or the merely greenish ice of some ponds, a
quarter of a mile off. Sometimes one of those great cakes slips from
the ice-man’s sled into the village street, and lies there for a week
like a great emerald, an object of interest to all passers. I have noticed
that a portion of Walden which in the state of water was green will
often, when frozen, appear from the same point of view blue. So the
hollows about this pond will, sometimes, in the winter, be filled with
a greenish water somewhat like its own, but the next day will have
frozen blue. Perhaps the blue color of water and ice is due to the light
and air they contain, and the most transparent is the bluest. Ice is an
interesting subject for contemplation. They told me that they had
some in the ice-houses at Fresh Pond five years old which was as
good as ever. Why is it that a bucket of water soon becomes putrid,
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but frozen remains sweet forever? It is commonly said that this is the
difference between the affections and the intellect.
Thus for sixteen days I saw from my window a hundred men at
work like busy husbandmen, with teams and horses and apparently
all the implements of farming, such a picture as we see on the first
page of the almanac; and as often as I looked out I was reminded of
the fable of the lark and the reapers, or the parable of the sower, and
the like; and now they are all gone, and in thirty days more, probably,
I shall look from the same window on the pure sea-green Walden
water there, reflecting the clouds and the trees, and sending up its
evaporations in solitude, and no traces will appear that a man has
ever stood there. Perhaps I shall hear a solitary loon laugh as he dives
and plumes himself, or shall see a lonely fisher in his boat, like a
floating leaf, beholding his form reflected in the waves, where lately
a hundred men securely labored.
Thus it appears that the sweltering inhabitants of Charleston and
New Orleans, of Madras and Bombay and Calcutta, drink at my well.
In the morning I bathe my intellect in the stupendous and cosmogonal
philosophy of the Bhagvat Geeta, since whose composition years of
the gods have elapsed, and in comparison with which our modern
world and its literature seem puny and trivial; and I doubt if that
philosophy is not to be referred to a previous state of existence, so
remote is its sublimity from our conceptions. I lay down the book
and go to my well for water, and lo! There I meet the servant of the
Bramin, priest of Brahma and Vishnu and Indra, who still sits in his
temple on the Ganges reading the Vedas, or dwells at the root of a
tree with his crust and water jug. I meet his servant come to draw
water for his master, and our buckets as it were grate together in the
same well. The pure Walden water is mingled with the sacred water
of the Ganges. With favoring winds it is wafted past the site of the
fabulous islands of Atlantis and the Hesperides, makes the periplus of
Hanno, and, floating by Ternate and Tidore and the mouth of the
Persian Gulf, melts in the tropic gales of the Indian seas, and is
landed in ports of which Alexander only heard the names.




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